Kick of the Week: Mars Cheese Castle

Mars Cheese Castle, Kenosha, WI - June 2012

Mars Cheese Castle, Kenosha, WI – June 2012

Anyone who has driven on the interstate between Chicago and Milwaukee will no doubt recognize this roadside sign, situated right off of I-94 in Kenosha, WI. For years I’ve always thought of it as an unofficial “Welcome to Wisconsin” – it’s a few miles north of the Illinois/Wisconsin border. Last June we decided to pull over and finally see what it was all about. We were also on a search for New Glarus beer which is only sold in Wisconsin.

In 1947 Mario Ventura Sr. decided to open a cheese store alongside then-US 41, naming it Mars Cheese Castle. The name Mario is derived from the Roman god Mars – also his son’s nickname – and his mother had inherited a castle in Villa Roca, Italy. Over 60 years later, the family-operated store (currently managed by Mario’s grandson) is still going strong, attracting passersby to its new “castle” (built in 2011) with its great selections of meats, cheeses, and specialty grocery items. Oh, and yes…a large variety of New Glarus products!

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Reading Material: How The States Got Their Shapes

StatesShapes

Ever wonder why Oklahoma has a panhandle and Missouri has a bootheel, or why Colorado and Wyoming are just boring rectangles? Also, what’s up with that big part of Michigan that clearly looks like it should belong to Wisconsin? During the expansion of the United States, one of the main objectives of congress was to create states of equal status and power, so how did everything turn out looking so random and uneven?

The book How The States Got Their Shapes explains the story of the landforms, plans, mistakes, payoffs, skirmishes, compensations and political schmoozing that shaped the US map we know today. In explaining how these forces worked together, Mark Stein uncovers a surprising amount of local history at each border. A few examples:
~ The Missouri/Iowa border is not straight, but curves slightly upward toward its eastern end because of a surveying error that was never corrected.
~ Texas has a provision stating that it has the right to break into 5 separate states if it should choose.
~ The original Carolina Colony stretched in theory from the Atlantic to the Pacific (though at the time they weren’t entirely aware of how far that was).
~ Both Minnesota (Northwest Angle) and Washington (Point Roberts) have tiny bits that are connected directly to Canada but not to the United States by land at all.
And my personal favorite ~ A judge, bitter at his appointment to an outlying area in the Idaho Territory, traveled to Washington, DC carrying $2,000 in gold and “somehow” shifted the proposed state border in Montana’s favor.

A helpful section titled “Don’t skip this, you’ll just have to come back later” gets things started by explaining some major milestones like the French and Indian War and the Louisiana Purchase that determined future state boundaries. It also describes the thought process behind everything going all rectangular out West and reveals the lasting lines drawn by slavery. All 50 states and the District of Columbia are covered in alphabetical order. The alphabetical organization is handy for when you want to quickly find one state, but since neighboring states are not next to each other alphabetically, I found myself frequently flipping back and forth to make sense of it chronologically. Each chapter contains several reference maps, but it’s still nice to keep an atlas open for an overview.

It’s a great general historical/geographic reference book to have. We also used the book as a time-killer while passing through 12 states on our Eastern US and Canada road trip in 2010, reading chapters aloud after entering each new state. We’re cool like that.

To answer one of the questions from the first paragraph: Michigan was given its Upper Peninsula (and Isle Royale) as compensation for losing a border battle with its southern neighbor that resulted in Toledo becoming part of Ohio. The people of the future Wisconsin were not happy.

Minnesota's Northwest Angle, Missouri's bootheel and Oklahoma's panhandle. Weird.

Minnesota’s Northwest Angle, Missouri’s bootheel and Oklahoma’s panhandle. Weird.

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Kick of the Week: Roy’s on Route 66

Roy's Motel and Cafe, Amboy, CA - April 2012

Roy’s Motel and Cafe, Amboy, CA – April 2012

Driving along a section of Route 66 from Joshua Tree to Grand Canyon last April, we stopped at Roy’s Motel and Cafe in Amboy, CA, hoping to get a bite to eat. Unfortunately the once motel-cafe-gas station-auto repair shop only operates nowadays as a gas station. With its iconic road sign, Roy’s is a reminder of a pre-interstate US. Roy’s opened in 1938 as a gas station along Route 66 – then the primary route for anyone traveling from Chicago to Los Angeles. The complex grew over the years and by the 1950s employed over 70 people (in a town of 700 at the time). When I-40 opened in 1972 – bypassing the area – business declined, turning Amboy into a ghost town (current pop. 4). In 2005 preservationist Albert Okura bought the entire town, promising to restore Roy’s to its former glory. Here’s hoping.

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National Parks need our help!

BryceOverlook

Because of today’s forced spending cuts, the National Park Service is faced with funding cuts of $100 million dollars. This will most likely be seen through reductions in visitor access, park facility hours, resource management and staffing (save the park rangers!)

The best way to help out is to make a donation through the National Park Foundation, the official charity of the National Park Service. All funds are invested directly into the park system. The Foundation’s three areas of focus are conservation & preservation, education, and community engagement. They might also give you some pretty nice return address mailing labels when you become a member.

Click here for more details on possible budget impacts.

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Kick of the Week: Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ - April 2012

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ – April 2012

Happy 94th birthday!

Created on February 26, 1919, Grand Canyon National Park is the second most popular park in the country, with almost 4.5 million visitors annually. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, it simply must be seen in person to begin to understand its beauty and sheer magnitude. Our wonderful stay in the park last April allowed us to experience great views and a hike into the canyon but at 277 miles in length, many return trips are in order (perhaps a rim-to-rim hike with a stopover at Phantom Ranch?).

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Upcoming Travel: South Central Loop

Hot Springs, Arkansas and our spring break route.

Hot Springs, Arkansas and our spring break route.

In a little over a month, we’re using Nick’s spring break from teaching to fill in a blank region on our road trip map. Like many of our voyages, the initial direction was determined by a national park, so we’re heading southwest by car to Hot Springs National Park in Hot Springs, Arkansas.

The smallest of all national parks is dedicated to the natural hot water that flows out of the Ouachita Mountains. It was actually the first area in the country to be federally protected in 1832, but didn’t become a National Park until 1921. A row of elaborate bathhouses was developed beginning in the 1870s to serve the growing numbers of people who traveled there to take advantage of the relaxing and supposed healing qualities of the thermal waters. Fun science fact: the 143 degree water that flows from the mountain started its journey 4,400 years ago when it fell as rain on the surrounding hilltops.

Bathhouse Row from above.

Bathhouse Row from above.

This National Park is somewhat unique in that it maintains a system of use and preservation, rather than keeping things in a completely natural state; hot mineral water is collected and distributed for use in the community. The main attraction is the historic spa buildings known as Bathhouse Row. Guests can still receive treatments using the spring water at historic Buckstaff Baths and the more modern Quapaw Baths and Spa. Buckstaff seems like be the more authentic experience, although the accommodations look a bit institutional by current standards. And when I say institutional, I really mean “asylum.” But how often do you have the opportunity to be placed in a metal steam cabinet with only your head sticking out? Other activities in the park include hiking trails, scenic drives and the Grand Promenade, more than enough to entertain us for a day.

After Hot Springs, the trip goes family-style with a visit to my brother and fam in Fort Worth, Texas. In the DFW area, we’ll set our sights on visiting the 6th floor museum in Dallas and the various other cultural amenities around the Metroplex. Fort Worth has a great collection of museums in the Cultural District west of downtown. It’s also the home of the world’s largest “honky tonk,” whatever that is. If you’re reading this, you must know we love to eat, so we’ll be on the lookout for some dining hot spots as well. We’ve already heard plenty of “you’re going to Texas and not going to Austin?” But alas, there is not enough time to do it justice, so we’ll save it for another trip (we still have to make it to Big Bend National Park after all).

A European parental visit means we’ll have to return to Chicago by Friday,  the 29th. To make the trip a loop, we’ll head north out of the Fort Worth on I-35, checking off Oklahoma and Kansas on Nick’s yet-to-visit states list. The strangely-rolling Flint Hills region between Wichita and Emporia, Kansas and the scenic byway that crosses it will provide a geographic diversion along the way. Our overnight stops on the return leg are still to be determined, but most likely will be Oklahoma City and Kansas City. A stop in Kansas City could be a nice way to experience more sites related to the Harvey Corporation as their headquarters was located in Union Station there in its heyday.

After KC, it’s a day’s drive back home to Chicago. Here we go again …

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Kick of the Week: Springfield, IL

Union Square Park, Springfield, IL - August 2010

Union Square Park, Springfield, IL – August 2010

Happy Presidents Day!

On our way to St. Louis a few years ago we spent an afternoon in Springfield, IL, exploring Abraham Lincoln’s hometown. Opened in 2005, the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum is a must for all visitors, with great exhibits on Lincoln’s life and career, and the Civil War. We also enjoyed walking around the Lincoln Home National Historic Site – a preserved neighborhood where you can tour his house. For fans of architecture, Springfield is also the home of the Frank Lloyd Wright’s Dana-Thomas House (a definite stop for us on a return trip).

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Kick of the Week: American Gothic

J. S. Johnson II's "God Bless America" in Dubuque, IA - November 2010

Seward Johnson’s “God Bless America” in Dubuque, IA – November 2010

American painter Grant Wood (Feb 13, 1891-Feb 12, 1942) is probably best known for his iconic 1930 painting: American Gothic. While the painting itself is at the Art Institute in Chicago, Seward Johnson’s sculpture “God Bless America” – an homage to the artwork – has been touring the country over the past few years. In October 2010 it was installed in front of the Dubuque Museum of Art, which contains one of the world’s largest collections of Grant Wood artwork. Originally planned for 7 months, the installation is still on display in Dubuque as it keeps getting extended.

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Seattle to Chicago: Planning Update

We’ve been making some serious progress on our summer road trip plans. The flight to Seattle is booked and lodging is confirmed in all the National Parks, with cabins in Grand Teton and Yellowstone and small inns at the others. One notable and fun motel we found is the Flamingo Motel in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. It has great TripAdvisor reviews and we always love an independent establishment. We chose the “Flamingo Beach” themed room if you’re curious.

The general driving route is fairly well-established and we’ve discovered a few additional sites to visit along the way. Among them is Wallace, Idaho, site of the largest wildfire in US History, and Pompey’s Pillar in Montana, a rock formation named after Sacajawea’s son by William Clark (and the only place where the Corp of Discovery left physical evidence when Clark scratched his name into a rock). Another Lewis and Clark site of interest is an interpretive center in Washburn, North Dakota, near where they spent the first winter of the expedition with the Mandan tribe. While visiting Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota, we’ll be staying at Buffalo Gap Guest Ranch, which invites guests to bring your own horse (BYOH?). Since we won’t be hauling in our own, we will definitely be heading to Peaceful Valley Ranch to do a trail riding excursion.

After North Dakota, the route back to Chicago could take many forms. Fargo makes a logical stopping point after leaving Roosevelt National Park, and we want to visit the source of the Mississippi River, Lake Itasca, in northern Minnesota. The fastest way home would be to then head south to Minneapolis/St. Paul for the night, but we’ve been there, so that’s not the most interesting option. An alternative would be to drive east from Itasca to Duluth and get a glimpse of Lake Superior. After that we’re torn … By turning south toward Chippewa Falls we could tour the Leinenkugel brewery and add to our Wisconsin beer experiences, or we could continue further east through the Northwoods and visit the island town of Minocqua. So many roads, so little time, but that’s the beauty of the road trip.

We welcome suggestions from anyone who has traveled in the area!

Routes

Plotting our options for returning to Chicago from North Dakota this summer.

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Rocky Mountain Road Trip Gallery

This gallery contains 26 photos.

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